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Writer's pictureTBD Magazine

ADORNMENT: The History of Gold Jewelry and its Presence in Minority Communities

Updated: Jul 15

BY JABEZ BERNIARD

Chunky layered chains, big hoops, gleaming grills and countless stacked rings— a flashy sign of overconsumption or a tradition of ornamentation and healing through reclamation?


Dating back to the Ancient Egyptians, jewelry has long been regarded as an extension of its wearer. It takes on an active role by invoking conversation, offering protection and symbolizing status.


Rich or poor, Egyptians prided themselves on their collection of gold jewelry as they believed it to be the flesh of the gods. They crafted armbands, necklaces and more in honor of the gods who watched over them. Amulets were thought to protect babies from sickness and engraved signet rings represented blessed bloodlines and royalty.


To wear gold jewelry on a day to day basis, was to look your best for the gods in hopes of earning the favor and being blessed with more. To be buried with your gold was to hope for a better, more comfortable life in the afterlife.



Modern day perception of collecting and wearing an abundance of gold jewelry is less black and white. There’s less talk of god’s and good fortune and more on the blurred lines between pride and greed.


In the United States, the connotation behind the concept of “wearing wealth” can be best understood by examining the underlying notes of classism and racism.


Hip Hop is one of the most influential cultures in the world. This is a fact. The music, fashion, dance, art and expression has been revolutionary, inspiring generations of creators and promoting unity for minoritized groups.


The breakthrough of Hip Hop was a victory during the 80s. Dubbed the “Golden Age,” musical artists were tearing down bearers, using their lyrics to protest social issues like poverty, crime and the struggle to make change with conservative policies and capitalism in effect.


Every mainstream hit brought issues of minority communities to the forefront. Every over-sized, embellished chain and statement watch was a sign of success and symbol of accomplishment despite the odds.


So when others critique minority communities for their supposed fiscal irresponsibility and flashy habitats, it’s because they fail to recognize the true historical significance behind the practice.


Whereas the Egyptians wore jewelry to look their best for the god’s who blessed them, with the overarching goal of moving upward in life, today, high fashion pieces are worn by those who want to celebrate and recognize the cultural change that was pioneered by minorities groups who fought for change and created a place for themselves.


The common theme? The desire to look and feel their best on the journey upward.


Present Day---


Nameplate necklaces: There’s no better way to make your presence known than with a blinged out nameplate necklace. The staple pieces are one of a kind for many minority wearers, whose respective names and nicknames are unique to them only.



Hoops: Big, gold and… ghetto? Before gold hoops became popular as part of the so-called “Clean Girl” movement inspired by social media influencers, Black and Latina women wore gold hoops with pride and were often being looked down on for doing so. Today, they are working to reclaim the narrative by wearing their hoops as a sign of resistance and power.


Grillz: Whether you’re rocking individual gold crowns or a full mouth grill, the dental accessory has history, a very expensive history. Artists like Slick Rick, Flava Fav and Nelly popularized grill culture with their custom cuts and designs. Grillz are regarded as a sign of wealth and a testament to a person’s inner floss.


CREATIVE CREDITS:

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALFRED COLEMAN III

STYLING BY DONAKA KATHERINE

MODELS: ASHLEIGH LAWS, CRUSH DIAZ, XABIEL LUCIA, CAROLE IKAZE

MAKEUP BY LAURYN HINTON

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